Skagit suggestions?

[Esox_Hunter]

Well after talking about it for several years, I finally coughed up the cash for a steelhead switch rod. The rod is in the process of being built, when finished it will be an 11' 4" 7wt built on a batson blank. I just ordered a reel for it, I found an Orvis Mach IV with a spare spool for right around $200.

As expected, one of the spools will be be holding a WF floating line.

For 2 hand casting I would like to run a skagit setup on my other spool. I understand the basics of how they work but, I do not know any of the specifics.

A typical setup from what I have researched seems to be:

-- 60-100' of running line
-- 25-30' of the sakgit head (seems like the compact head is prefered for switch)
-- 8-15' tip with my desired sink rate
-- 5-8' leader to fly

This is a rather basic recipe as of right now, thats where I need the help.

I have seen full Skagit lines that include both the running line and the head, but they are pretty pricey. I have also seen a number of manufacturers make just a skagit head. To save money, I was thinking about buying a head and using another 7wt line(cut the head off) and use the remaining 60' or so as my running line. Is this a reasonable approach to constructing a line?

One more thing, is there a way to avoid paying $20 bucks or so for each different tip? I would like to have at least 1 floating tip and 2 sinking tips but I am low on funds after spending all my money on the rod and reel. I figure there has to be an easy way to make these tips.

Thanks in advance to any and all help/suggestions for a broke rookie switch fisherman!!

[AaronJasper]

First find the grain weight that the rod is rated for.

I think that the Skagit head should be 2.5 to 3 times the rod length. You can also use cheaters to accomplish this. You can make the sinking heads but by the looks of it theycan be complicated at best. Also, the commercial ones are coded so you know what the tips are.

You can use the running lone from the 7 weight but be sure to check the diameter. Also, it's best to have someone who knows what they are doing set it up for you.

Andrew Moy at www.tightlinesflyshop.com in Pine b
Brook is exteremely knowledgeable. I am sure you can call there and speak to him and you will be set up right.

[Esox_Hunter]

Thanks for the advice Aaron, if I can't get some more solid answers by the end of the week I will give him a shot. I spoke with the guy building my rod recently and I think I have a little clearer of an idea. I am just trying to gather as many opinions as possible before I drop another $100 on line that I have no experience with.

I am a little suprised that there are not some speycasters on here. Especially since there seems to be plenty of steel junkies here!

[trout5]

It sounds to me like using the 7wght running line should work. And I would definately go with a skagit head. Did you know you can also use a floating tip on your skagit line and get some good long floats! And you can make the various sink tips, but I'm not sure that would save you any money. You would have to purchase various sink rates and then cut them to length and then splice loops into them. I have 13' G Loomis Cross Current that I have fished in Ohio, PA, and NY. Excellent rod. After talking with Andrew at Tightlines (from who I bought the rod) I decided to go with Rio's Skagit line. I had some spare change in those days :-\ He also set me up with several densities of sink tips. I bought commercial tips for two of them, but we made the other two out of T-14. Aaron doesn't lie, the dude knows spey. I would even consider taking a spey casting lesson from him. (he threw one in for me after I dropped $750 on the rod ) It greatly enhanced my learning curve.

[Walshmiko]

Yeah Tightlines, Drew Give me like a two hour lession last week on spey.. He knows his stuff, plus I hear from tons of other people that he Is just amazing spey caster, Plus that shop has everything

[nutman]

if i was going to go with a skadgit Id go with airflo ,stay away from rio for now ,they are behind in this technology ,for the moment . they are still in spey rod land WHICH IS DIFFERENT .airflo has better grain weight choices .30 grain incriments . I would hope you are going to use a sink tip and you can get airflo custom cut ones and make them yourself ,which is cheaper .if it is a swith rod most go with the length of the rod for the sink tip or two foot longer .look into the ct200 sink tips that is about the best weight unless you are dredging really deep holes then move up to the ct 300 .oh and learn to single spey cast and the snap t and you will be on your way

[nutman]

Go with guideline (compline )for a running line ,the stuff shoots awesome .I can cast over a hundred feet with this stuff and i have a crappy rod !It can be stretch straight .Rio is a bit behind airflo ,but they have something coming out but i havent heard the reports yet from the tester, he will be back from alaska this week to let me know what he thinks . If you are going to float a line get a scandi head to match your rod. they are better for floating .

[Esox_Hunter]

Once again thanks for the suggestions guys.

Nutman- I have heard others recommend the same running line, I guess I should bite the bullet and pick it up. Thanks for the tips on the heads and (making) cheaters, once again I have heard numerous good things about airflo skagit components. I am going to ask the guy building the rod what grain line I should pick up. I still have a couple months to take care of all this, fishing will soon take a backseat in favor of the treestand accompanied by a stick and string.

By the way, I dont think I will be shooting 100 feet of line anytime soon!!

[nutman]

with the airflo system the cheater is eliminated .cheaters are just for spey lines ,forget them for underhand casting .if you learn to underhand cast you will be able to shoot a hundred feet in no time ,it is different from normal spey casting ! not that you need to shoot a hundred feet ,the fish can be right at your feet at times dont forgewt to fish in close first and work your way out ,it is the same for trout fishing .
Here in the north west the fish can be all over the place and being able to hit a hole a hundred feet or more out can be helpful on pressured fish .
the indusrty has changed drastically in the last two years alone it is hard to keep up with !yeah the comp running line is the shit ! remeber to stretch it before you put it on the real

[NJFred]

Davy... thanks for sharing your insight regarding the Loch Lavens in Lewis lake! That is a very interesting observation they that are genetically pure.

In my home water the Delaware river, both strains are observed in the wild browns there. No doubt there has been a great deal of crossing genetically. But today, you can still see great variation in the coloring of the Browns and can clearly ID in some fish which one or the other strain is largely present.

The Wild Bows of the Delaware, which reside largely in the Mainstem (although in recent years my buddies and I have observed more and more of them in the West Branch), are the McCloud strain. McCloud's do not grow to excessive length therefore it is quite rare to catch a bow in excess of the 20 to 22 inch class.