
Originally Posted by
Duck-butt Chucker
Couple Questions. Limiting my box this year to the following:
Dries:
Adams CDC Comparadun 16-22
Griffith's Gnat 14,18, 22, 26
Serendipity, Tan 16, 20 (fished as a dry so i'll probably need flotant in order to do so effectively)
Streamer:
Black Weighted Zonker Size 8
Question 1: I fish my Adams CDC Comparadun for all mayfly hatches regardless of color (BWO, Sulfer, Cahills, etc..). I like the fly specifically because it works effectively for both an Emerger (body rides low in the film) and Spinner (close enough wing imprint by well packed CDC). I am considering having them tied on scud hooks this season and believe it would slightly improve my catch rate during emerger stage and wouldn't likely reduce my catch rate during spinner stage (since the body on regular hook rides low in film on spinner falls already anyway and wing imprint from the CDC is still the same). I also believe a "half sunk" spinner would actually look closer to a CDC comparadun tied on a scud hook as opposed to a straight hook anyway. Do you think this is true or would the "straight body in the film" be the better spinner imitator as opposed to "scud hook" version? Secondly, since the body rides low in the film either way with the CDC comparadun does it even matter using a scud hook vs. straight hook body in regard to the emergers to begin with?
Question 2: I have not used a CDC Comparadun to imitate caddis hatches of the same size but logically I don't really see why this wouldn't work well enough to where I would not need a separate caddis emerger pattern (ie; Serendipity) from my mayfly emerger pattern (ie; CDC Comparadun). Do you believe this is necessary or will they both work about the same? The CDC Comparadun will also get a consistently better drift vs. the Serendipity and looks almost identical in overall body shape if tied on a scud hook so do you think the CDC Comparadun would effectively imitate a caddis emerger well enough as well or do I need a separate caddis emerger pattern?
Question 3: I'm also almost inclined this season to just have every other size tied (ie; only 16, 20, 24) as opposed to carrying all sizes (ie; 16, 18, 20, 22, 24) since if trout are on "size 16 sulfers" and 10 people are fishing "size 16 sulfer parachutes" while the hook size for each of them is identical there is still both varience on the amount of material on the hook so that isn't a constant yet the pattern is still is efficient. i'm looking at my 18 vs 20 griffith's gnat and the difference in the amount of material on the hook (which is what actually imitates the fly, not the hook size itself) between the two material-wise is basically no different to where it's almost like to the amount of varience in material from the 10 different people fishing a "size 16" fly. I also have seen it stated numerous times that while one size larger almost never works, one size smaller very often does in my own experience, Rosenbauer states "same size or one size smaller for matching the hatch", and also many professional guides "swear" by using one size smaller as opposed to the actual size of the bug hatching. Question here being is it necessary to carry for 14-24 mayflys the same pattern in each of size 14-24 or can I get away just about as well with using 16 (for size 14 and 16 mayflys), 20 (for size 18 and 20 mayflys), and 24 (for size 22 and 24 mayflys) to cover that same 14-24 mayfly range? I absolutely agree fly size is extremely important, but more so in the context that the fly you're using can't be larger than the natural on the water, same size is obviously the general rule of thumb, but does one size smaller work just about as well (or even more effective as mentioned with some professional guides swearing by the tactic)? In my experience it has but I, when using such a limited # of flies to begin with, do at least consistently stick with the "correct" sizes at least however I am starting to doubt, based on what I mentioned above, if I couldn't just fish every other size and do just about as well. What do you think?
Question 4: if I carry sizes 16-24 for my fly patterns I can fish all those on 6x leaders and then I only need to buy 6x and 7x tippet which I like as 8x is too thin anyway and I break off far too many fish on the hookset to where it's pretty much worthless to fish it with the 9ft 5 weight I use everywhere. Question here however is i'm starting to think fishing a 12ft leader for the dries should be standard as opposed to the more common 9ft as often people will fish a 9ft 5x leader without success and then drop 2 or 3 feet of 6x off it and then al of a sudden "be successful". Obviously the 6x has lower capacity to impart drag on the fly so I have no doubts with that, but based on my experiences on the Farmington fishing Tricos last August. I used both 7x and 8x 9ft leaders was considerably less productive than when I fished a 12ft 7x leader. Makes me wonder if the extra 3 feet of leader is actually what helps people be more productive majority of the time as opposed to dropping down from 7x to 8x in the same situation. What do you think about this? In other words over the span of a season just for argument sake what would be more productive for dries if you could only fish one of the two set-ups: a "12ft 6x leader" or a "9ft 7x leader"? Essentially, is the 12ft vs. 9ft aspect of a leader likely of greater significance to the 6x vs. 7x aspect of that same leader when fishing dry?
Question 5: Lastly, when I fish streamers (namely my Black weighted zonker size 8) could I just get away with buying 8lb flourocarbon fishing line this year, cut-off 7 1/2 feet of line, tie a perfection loop to the end of it, and then have that be an efficient enough leader for throwing my streamers? or do I need to actually stock up on 2x leaders as well?
Thanks,
-Mike