Anyone use fluoro for Dries?

[Walter1023]

I'm now sold on the idea of using Fluoro for Nymphs/streamers...thanks to this board. I am assuming evryone uses Mono for dries? I was thinking....if fluoro is so much less visible than mono...and it will go subsurface....would that make for a better dry fly presentation...or does that fact that fluoro sinks tend to drag the dry fly down also? Just curiuous.

[LorenWilliams]

I use fluoro. for 100% of my inland trout fishing for the reasons you mentioned. Dry and subsurface.

You still need to degrease it for dry fly fishing though......

[mcarl]

I have used both for dryfly fishing and had good success for both. The main thing for dry fly fishing is to get a proper leader to fall into a bunch of slack especially towards the tippet. You also have to have the correct size tippet for the size/bulk of the fly. Those are the main things to get right first. After that some of it is your personal preference as to what type/brand/ etc.. you use. I don't like to use all f.c. for dry flies that are very tiny like the needhami and the other tiny flies that are on the Farmington later in the summer and into the fall. I've found that the whole leader tends to drag the tiny stuff under too much. Instead I just use f.c at the tippet for those situations. You have to be careful matching mono brands with f.c. brands though as some don't match well with knots and strength. I tie my own leaders and frequently change length, size ,etc.. throughout the day. Tying all f.c. leaders all day long becomes very expensive after a while. Some of the mix-matching can be minimized if use use all of the same brand I.E. use all Rio or all Froghair or whatever other brand you prefer.That has been my own experience.

[Walter1023]

Thanks Loren and McCarl. Loren...when you use the term degrease - I assume you mean putting some fly floatant on the fluoro leader prior to use ? If that is what you mean - would you normally apply to the entire leader length...or just the last few feet ? Thanks again.

[AaronJasper]

Walter,

By de-greasing they are talking about using Snake River mud by Loon to take the reflective sheen of the leader as it can spook the fish during fry fly scenarios.

Let's hope I can get my damn Tarpon today. I sucked yesterday

[LorenWilliams]

Actually, degreasing agents come in many forms, and a dollop of good old stream bottom works just fine.

It removes, initially, the chemicals from the manufacturing process that will attract surface tension which will actually pull the water to the line. From below this will look like two wide, long, black shadows on either side of the mono. This will happen with nylon, CP, FC, and your fly line. You obviously want your fly line to be up high--this is why you want to avoid casting your fly line over the fish. But, as you fish your leader will pick up additional chemicals and debris that need to be removed.

Degreasing any leader material will cause it to lose some surface tension attraction and nestle a bit into the film where it will all but disappear. FC will just nestle a bit further. This will not only help greatly with refusals but it will also minimize almost all non-operator microdrag. I carry degreasing agent in my vest and I use it all day long with both nymphs and dries.

However, FC does not absorb water, is more abrasion resistant and typically tests the same or better than mono. All great attributes I'd say!

FWIW: when I fish stillwater dries I use nothing but 3X (4X on the rarest of rare occasions), when degreased I have very little trouble with refusals.

My dry fly leaders are usually a length (3 or 4 feet) of 1X or 2X (the top end of a tapered leader in very windy conditions or when long casts are required) and then 5-7 feet of straight tippet, 5X for example.

[Walter1023]

Thanks for the info guys.....good stuff to know. Have a great Memorial Day......I will try to make it onto the Housy Monday....hopefully find a open spot somewhere well below the TMA.

[NJFred]

I use Fluro for all my fishing including drys. As someone mentioned leader design is key. IMHO this is an area where many fishing drys can dramatically improve their hook up rate. A proper leader cast properly can really help with both drag reduction and perhaps more importantly accuracy. Drag reduction doesn't matter if one can't place the fly over the fishes rising lane. A properly designed leader turns the fly over well so one can be accurate with those casts. This is of particular importance on my home water the Delaware where long casts have to be made to selective fish which tend not to budge inches to the left or right to take a fly (Unless they are cruising as they often do during a good hatch).

Bottom line is pay attention to your leader and you will put the fly in the right place more often and get more hookups.

[Davyfly]

Interesting how we choose different options here for dry fly fishing.
I relate most of the time what l choose to use related to the fly being used. A Elk hair caddis is a very different deal to say a very small mayfly or broadwing, large stonefly or hopper.

Do l have preferences for FC, regular mono or copolymer, at times l believe it can make a difference, it depends on the water surface, a flat glass glide is one thing a fast riffle water is another.
I do use float agents and degrease agents at times, fullers earth being my all time favorite.

If there is any one tip would offer it is to use way longer leader systems.

Loren l am very surprised you choose to use 3x for stillwater dries, as a rule l will be using 5x and as low as 6x at times, with maybe 2 or 3 dries.
Unless l was fishing some very choppy water with larger caddis,hopper type fly patterns, when fish are likely to hit you hard.

Typically l will be fishing midge dries, mayfly patterns such as Callibaetis, and the likes.

Davy.

[harlequin]

I've used 7x Flourocarbon for all my drying and had excellent results on the Farmington. I used to use 4-5x mono, but since switching to 7x flouro I've seen huge results to my catching ability especially on the Farmington River!