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Hey there. Wanted to know what patterns use for caddis larva. I use a pattern with bright green dubbing, copper wire rib, and black thread or dubbed head. Have caught fish but not many on this pattern. It is just one of those patterns that has not been kind. I will continue to use it and fish it. Was wondering however, does anyone have another good caddis larva pattern that your willing to share. One that is successful especially in CT waters.
www.firsthatchflyfishing.com
http://www.theflystop.com/page/page/4433054.htm
I've used several of these patterns to great effect, particularly the hydropsyche. If I remember correctly from Borger's Presentation they're much more widespread than the net-builders (the green rockworm) which tend to be the bright green caddis larvae... I think those are to be saved for very cold waters, headwaters, etc. I think he said the hydropsyche is the most commonly occurring caddis larva, not necessarily the most abundant in any one stream, but in the most streams.
I know aaron has a cased caddis pattern that is killer in PA. Those larvae are also green.
Yeah, I have some good case caddis patterns as well and I believe they are just like the one's Aaron uses. However, I am looking for straight larva patterns.
hydropsyche, netbuilders and green rock worms... ever check out borger's pattern?
Jim, try a similar pattern as to the green larva you have used without success, but change up the color scheme- an overall olive to olive brown color has been the most consistent for me, and best represents the most common coloration of the most abundant larva most places. Make a dark brown head, rib it with copper wire (or brown Maxima), and add a sparse beard of legs out of mottled hen saddle. Feel free to incorporate some Ice Dub in the pattern- blend a little into the mix, or use it straight for the head, or put one or two turns of pure Ice Dub between the abdomen & thorax. I usually skip the beard of leg fibers on #16 & smaller- just touch a dubbing teaser or velcro to the underside of the thorax and pick out a few fibers for legs. I most commonly tie them #14-16 on a scud hook such as TMC 2457 or Daiichi 1150 (my favorite, it has a slight up eye that allows me to put a beard of legs fibers right at the eye of the hook without it getting in the way), but 12's & 18's can be useful too- I suspect the #18's get taken for a midge larva too. Keep the flies slim and the brown thorax area short- most commercial ties are too bulky and the thorax is too long. Make sure to also tie the pattern well down into the bend to simulate the natural curl that the real larva have when drifting awash in the current. Flip some rocks and look at what the naturals look like, and see what size & color is most abundant where you fish. I've done well on the bright green at moments, but the olive and olive brown are way more consistent. Cased Caddis have been particularly productive for me in March & April. Free living/net spinning larva patterns work particularly well in the Winter & Spring where I fish in CT- the Housy & Farmington mainly, but also on other rivers in CT like the Salmon.
One problem with the bright green Caddis larva, aka "Rockworms", is that people fish it in the wrong water. It is strictly a fast water insect, and fishing it anywhere else makes the pattern way less effective. They can also get quite large, with patterns in the #8-10 range not too big at all in many places. Cased Caddis live in slower flows, but they can be effective in moderate to fast water too. You can also use a sinking line to crawl cased Caddis right on the bottom in back eddies and in slow pool water.
I suggest reading about the larva and some of the specific species and their pertinent info in "Caddisflies" by LaFontaine. Also look in his book "Trout Flies, Proven Patterns".
Try also using a black or copper metal bead for the head, or use a glass bead in root beer or black. You can use different wire colors for the rib- instead of copper use chartreuse, copper brown, green, red, etc. Or rib it with flashabou. The sky is the limit.
For Steelhead try tying it slightly bigger (#8-12) and use a bright orange bead for the head, make the abdomen in chartreuse or bright green or olive, or make the head out of Ice dub or dark olive Crystal Chenille.
Pattern you describe sounds like my go to fly.
They're always in the river, and fish always like to eat em
Torrey says I tie them too bright, but I'll just let him argue with the fish ;D
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s.../fish-food.jpg
Slo-
Do you do better with the bright green? While I've found it to have it's moments, the olive to olive brown has just been way more consistent for me and most of my other friends too. Are there particular situations or times when the bright green has been more productive for you? Curious to know. Nice picture by the way- what river? Deerfield, Housy, or Farmington? At a glance I think those are Rhyacophila, the classic "Rockworm"- they have the bright coloration and chubby segmentation, sort of like a mini green Michelin Man. What sizes do you prefer Eddie? I know in the past you mentionned that for the Housy you often fish a #10 or even #8 (I think) with a bright green or chartreuse, twisted Darlon or Antron body.
Thanks Torrey! Will tie some up tonight and this weekend. Slo N Deep, cool pics man! That's exactly the caddis I'm talking about. I don't know, I have fished it in slow and fast water without a lot of luck. I do have to admit, when I am fishing a caddis nymph it was usually a LaFontaine's Sparkle Pupa or Torrey's pupa that he showed me. Personally I like Torrey's better. Only sometimes the larva. Yeah I know I should have used it more but you can bet I'll be using them 10 times more now. But I also think that everyone just has one of those patterns that has just not been successful for them. I have had success out of state with them but minimal here in CT. Thanks for all your info guys.
[quote author=Nymphmeister link=topic=1095.msg6631#msg6631 date=1197020530]
Slo-
Do you do better with the bright green? While I've found it to have it's moments, the olive to olive brown has just been way more consistent for me and most of my other friends too. Are there particular situations or times when the bright green has been more productive for you? Curious to know. Nice picture by the way- what river? Deerfield, Housy, or Farmington? At a glance I think those are Rhyacophila, the classic "Rockworm"- they have the bright coloration and chubby segmentation, sort of like a mini green Michelin Man. What sizes do you prefer Eddie? I know in the past you mentionned that for the Housy you often fish a #10 or even #8 (I think) with a bright green or chartreuse, twisted Darlon or Antron body.
[/quote]
Those bugs came from the Housy.
My two best larva patterns are the bright green in a size 10 or 12, and a brown on brown in size 16 or 18.
For the brown one I use squirel-brite for the body and DARK chocolate brown (rabbit) at the head - I like this pattern; I dont even have to rib it because of the flash. I have fished it on the Farmington with remarkable success - outfishing other proven patterns about 10:1 on some days (too bad I dont keep notes regarding time of year).
I usually don't fuss with this pattern much, using a simple Olive beadhead, but I must mention the fly from John Barr's book. I saw the book at HRO yesterday, and if you are trying for realism, it would be hard to beat the Barr "Green Uncased Caddis Larva" on page 70. He uses a black bead with an Olive flyspecks thin skin covering, ribbed with 3X mono. It might be a tad over the top, but his picture of this fly wet looks good enough for me to eat! I am sure the fish will agree.
Seriously, though, it might be worth tying a few of these, when you feel the need for an ultra-realistic hatch-matcher. When I tie some, I'll post a couple pictures.
Yeah Alain, we gotta field test that pattern. Do you have the correct dubbing to tie it? I think he uses Nature's Spirit.
I will field test it, hopefully mid-May and beyond on the Hous, or maybe the Quinebaug? As you guessed, I don't have the exact correct dubbing in Barr's recipe. He calls for "Caddis Green Nature's Spirit Emergence dubbing." I have about 4 other caddis green dubbings, but not that one. If I don't procure some soon, I'll use what I have.
I have another customer that wants me to find some, so I'll order a bunch if I can get it. I start fishing olive/green Caddis a lot from March on, and they work in the Winter too, so I wouldn't wait until May.
I'll buy some from you too, if you can find it. It seems like it's available for direct order from them. I'll buy a bunch of different colors. In the meantime, I will probably blend some caddis green ice dub and Haretron. Thanks.
Alain
Do you have a coffee grinder? You can mix the dubbing yourself to come up with the perfect color. Also, you can try making your caddis larvae out of latex. You can stretch the latex very thin and it has automatic segmentation. Also, to get the darker back you can color it with a marker.
I had a coffee grinder for a while, but it stopped functioning one time when I was chopping up snowshow hare for Usuals. Maybe I'll get a new one, it's frustrating to mix the dubbings by hand, it's hard to get perfectly uniform.
Funny you mention about the latex. I have a big bag of balloons in my tying bureau for just this purpose. I used to cut strips from the balloons with an x-acto knife. I haven't done this either for a while, but I think a chartreuse balloon with a black Sharpie marker back would be just about right.
So many things to do...
Thanks for the suggestions.
If you use grey latex and stretch it thin over green dubbing it looks exactly like the "skin" on the naturals. You can even wiggle the stretched latex as you wrap it, trying to get the edges to lay right next to each other, this will allow a few hairs to poke through and create a very realistic fly.
Problem with the latex is that it degrades and then, because it's stretched, it breaks. Only a problem if the flies stay in your box a long time, mine usually dont. I have come across a few that I tied a few years back and all of them have broken latex.
PS If you roll a flat sheet of latex very tight, then cut it in the appropriate size strips, it is easier than trying to cut it straight with a razor.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...nb_ct/cad2.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...nb_ct/cad1.jpg
I tied a few of the Barr Green Uncased Larvae today in size 12 and 16. I don't have the exact correct materials, but these should be a very close facsimile. I didn't have the correct size black bead to do a size 14, probably the most common size. I took two pictures with and without flash (they are a little blurry). For the dubbing, I blended some Caddis Green Haretron with the same color Ice Dub. The Olive Fly Specks thin skin is an awesome material; the 3X mono rib really bites into it to make the segmentations. These seem like a fair match for the pictures from SloNDeep. What do you think?
Nice flies, Alain. I would try tying caddis larvae on a curved hook though, like the 2457 or 2488H. It looks like you used ostrich herl for the thorax, no?
Anyway, for me I agree with Torrey, I have had some luck on bright green larva, but more luck with olive green (especially on the Farmington).
I photoshopped your image to make it a bit more clear.
Steve
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...m53/cad1_1.jpg
Thanks, that improves the pictures. You're absolutely right about the hook. Barr calls for the Tiemco 2302, but I didn't have any. The smaller ones are tied on an Orvis size 16 beadhead hook. I think the bodies are a little chunky too. I will refine the pattern when I get the right materials.
Black ostrich herl in the thorax.
The Barr book is really excellent.
Thanks again.
In the Words of Borat... very nice... I approve them for use ;)
Yes, and Aaron would like 12 of them to "field test", Lol. They do look fishy, I was immediately drawn to that pattern when I first looked in his book. Gonna order some from Umpqua for the shop in '08. We should probably tie some up in more of an olive color, 'cuz its so common on the streams we fish.
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