Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
For the "typical" 18in fish in the TMA, I don't think the specific streamer matters that much, as long as it is in the 3-6in range in length. The best colors are typically black, olive, yellow and white. For patterns, a saltwater style bunny pattern is good, or a zonker style, or a big Zoo Cougar. The standard philosophy is to use black/olive in lower light, white/yellow in bright light. If you buy flies, look in the saltwater section first.
If you are targeting the really special giant holdovers (and who isn't?), it might pay to use a big jointed streamer. I have used articulated Zoo Cougars with great success in the past, but myriad patterns exist.
The real key to streamer success is how you fish the flies. It is generally better to cast across stream or up and across and strip perpendicular to the current. Use a density-compensated 200gr line and a short 0X fluorocarbon leader, about 3ft long total. The strikes are vicious. For better hookup percentages, I have been using stringer-style (wide gap) hooks like the Tiemco 8089.
As far as where the fish are holding, just remember that they are hunting salmon parr. The parr typically hold in the fast riffles, so the big browns hold downstream of those areas. Try fishing the moderate riffles and tail outs. Cover a lot of water. Most fish hit the streamer on the first 3 casts through an area. There is little point pounding the same section of water.
I use a 9ft 6wt TFO rod for streamers with a Rio 200gr DC line.
Go get 'em!
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Sound advice Alain. 3" does seem to be about the smallest size streamer that consistently moves & catches truly big trout (20"+). I too am a big fan of the Zoo Cougar & variations thereof, including jointed (sshhh, it's a secret....). Seems like different colors are hot on different days, and sometimes it changes as the day goes on. When a particular color is "hot", using it can be the difference between almost no fish and catching a lot of big ones. I used to think that color wasn't that important in streamers, but at moments it can be THE most important thing. I do agree that presentation is usually the #1 thing though, with color a close 2nd.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
After throwing streamers for most of the day on Thursday and Saturday, in my opinion the wider gap hook doesn't make a difference in the percentage of fish brought to net. I'm still having about 40 percent of the fish throw the hook after multiple hook sets and fighting them for 30 seconds to about a minute. Any thoughts or opinions on how to fight the fish would be greatly appreciated.
As for the summer streamer fishing, I would add that if the flow gets below 300 cfs, I would change to a floating line and lengthen my leader/tippet to about 8 or 9 feet so that the fly line doesn't spook the fish. Also, don't limit throwing streamers to morning or evening, I caught my personal best Farmington Brown on a hot, muggy August afternoon just after 1:00 pm on a Black Ghost.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Try going to a shorter shank hook and use a no-slip mono loop knot to tie on your streamer. Fish can get lots of leverage against a streamer hook due to it's length.
Are you fishing barbless hooks?
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Thanks Loren. I will try the shorter shank hooks.
Yes, I'm fishing barbless. I fish alot in the Farmington TMA.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
That's a good suggestion Loren, but the 8089 hooks that BLACKGHOST1 is using are already short shanked, about 3X long. We sort of went through this exercise a few years ago, when Galloup's streamer video came out. He also recommends shorter shank hooks.
I fish the Farmington TMA a lot too, and I am certain the frequent catch-and-release of those fish has everything to do with landing percentage. This year has seen pressure like never before, and the conditions have been excellent. I think some of the better fish get caught two or three times a week. I know for sure that I caught a 15in brown one morning and the same fish was caught again (by BLACKGHOST1) just a few hours later. Even the 20in fish I caught this weekend had probably been recently caught by a spin fisherman, since it spit out a big white rubber worm! I share some of the blame - I've been up there a lot.
The other factor is hook size. The larger hooks use a big diameter wire, so that the taper in the hook point goes from nothing to maybe 1/16in. On a small nymph hook, the taper goes from nothing to maybe 1/32in (I am guessing at actual diameters). I like the longer points in the Knapek hooks for this reason.
The next factor is the use of heavy-mass sinking line. We are using 200gr lines, and that sink, combined with the heavy downstream belly in the line, conspires to pull the hook out.
My other empirical evidence is the fact that my landing percentage has been good lately, especially on the small caddis larva patterns. I land most of those fish, especially after Aaron corrected my rod angle and tension during the fight. When fish hit the larger, heavier anchor patterns, I think landing percentage decreases. This happened to me often when the fish were really hitting the Vladi worm. I haven't seriously streamer fished this year, having too much fun Euro nymphing.
BLACKGHOST1 - try nymphing with the smaller stuff and see if your landing percentage goes up. Also, try fishing some smaller streamers, tied on a size 8 3XL hook.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
OK--then that is not the issue. Sometimes the barb on a big streamer hook is very hard to penetrate-especially on larger fish.
I think a shorter shank and loop knot will solve much of your problem. Just be sure the points of whatever hook you use are sharp--big iron is hard to sink--really hard when it's dull.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Alan,
I think the bigger issue (while not at all discrediting your fine observations) has to do with the fact that the fish are eating a moving object as opposed to a drifting one. Trout have terrible aim. I find much, much, much better hooking/landing when I fish streamers upstream and back versus downstream--and adding a loop knot really helps. Having the fly coming back on a rather slack line seems to really help. Therefore while I do strip line, I use my rod tip just as much when I fish big flies to try an encourage a somewhat slack connection between fly movements.
I also advocate using a slim full sinking line versus a tip---no need to mend with your presentation, especially on a big, deep stream like the Farmington bu keeping the fly tracking deep.
Losing fish with streamers is a nemesis--especially those 15"-18" fish that are just learning how to catch big meals. Often--they just don;t really get the hook. This is why I think I do so much better with a upstream cast and lots of rod twitches to keep the fly active but not tight.
If I am really wigging out I'll just go to smaller streamers--better hook/land but with obviously smaller fish. At that point it's probably better to fish nymphs.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Loren, excellent post, thanks!
I wonder if tube flies might serve a purpose here? I think you could get all the bulk of a big streamer, but with a smaller hook.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Certainly!!!! Tubes are a fine solution--I just hate tying them.:)
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
[quote author=alanb_ct link=topic=1872.msg13165#msg13165 date=1215458408]
I land most of those fish, especially after Aaron corrected my rod angle and tension during the fight. When fish hit the larger, heavier anchor patterns, I think landing percentage decreases.
[/quote]
Alain et al -
Would you care to expand a bit more about what you feel is the correct rod angle to hold when fighting a bigger sized fish? How do you vary the rod angle relative from how far away the fish is from you? Is side pressure important or is it one of those things that everyone says to do, yet maybe is a myth? I've heard arguments that go both ways and I've also heard that if you try to keep your rod angle working to oppose the direction the fish is heading in, you can actually loosen the hook by doing so.
Thanks -
Dave
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
I still struggle sometimes, but the first rule is to get downstream of a big fish. Fighting the brute upstream is the way to go. In this case, hold the rod mostly vertical and then apply side pressure right before landing the fish to ease it in to the net. The fish that runs downstream is the real challenge. I have found that holding the rod at about 10 o'clock works for me, so the rod is pointed slightly downstream, but still has enough upwards force to stay the hook point.
The next concern is to keep a big bend in your rod, especially with the longer rods. You must keep maximum tension. Finally, Aaron taught me not to automatically get the fish on the reel, as I used to, this distracts you from the battle. Instead, use the reel only after the fish has itself pulled the slack from your hand. I hope this helps...I still lose plenty of nice ones-especially on the super fast takes when nymphing the fast water!
Remember that after a fish is hooked, its first instinct is to head for safe holding water. This is why they always head for the tail out. When they are swimming downstream, you actually have a good angle for keeping the point in, but eventually, they always turn upstream and then your same pressure will yank the hook from its mouth. Your goal is to pull the hook in to the fish's mouth. When they jump, go nuts and change directions (Housy rainbows), there is no good angle!
The same angles you use for fighting a fish, you use for hooking a fish. The downstream hook set is always best. If you are casting a rusty spinner upstream to a big brown in a tail out, simply lifting the rod accomplishes the same angle.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Brookie-
You opened a whole can of worms with the fish playing questions.
-Side pressure works if the fish is relatively close to you, say 30 feet or closer. Beyond that I usually keep my rod up, esp. on a snaggy bottomed river like the Housy, it helps keep your line clear of rocks/snags on the bottom.
-I try to stay across from the fish or even below it, but of course that's not always possible. The toughest situation is being in the middle of fast water and having a big trout or steelhead below you fighting it's hardest.
-If a big fish makes a sudden run, I instantly drop the rod while simultaneously taking my hand off the reel to reduce tension.
-The harder the fish pulls, the less pressure you should put on them.
-Play them hard when they aren't doing anything, put some real pressure on them at that moment.
-Hook your rig up to a scale some time and pull on it, you will find that you are exerting a fraction of the pressure you think you are. Fish most commonly break off due to sudden jerks on the line, abrasion, or bad knots.
-Side pressure applied carefully will strongly influence where the fish goes, even a big one. If you swing your rod low & towards the bank, you can get the fish out of the main current by applying steady pressure.
-I've learned to back way off on applying pressure when a big trout is thrashing around on the surface, I lost many in years past by twisting the hook out then.
-Keeping your rod butt at about a 90 degree angle to your line while playing fish is a good balance between being able to apply pressure while absorbing shocks too.
-Play around with different rod angles & positions during the fight to see what works best, it can change from moment to moment, esp. as your relative position to the fish changes. This can also confuse the fish and bring the fight to a conclusion sooner, sort of "breaking their spirit".
-The closer you can stay to the fish the better, it gives you far more control over them. I see far too many people willingly let a fish get way below them- the worst of both worlds. Then you have both the current & distance conspiring against you. I see steelheaders do this all the time. Very stupid!
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
"I've learned to back way off on applying pressure when a big trout is thrashing around on the surface, I lost many in years past by twisting the hook out then."
Nymphmeister, this is the no. 1 problem I am having with the trout throwing the hook. The big trout thrashing around on top and then the hook pulls out, it usually happens within about 15 or 20 seconds or so. The next most frequent problem is after the fish settles down and starts making the run downstream, even though I start pursuing them and sometimes get even with them the hook will pull out. I will have to remember to back off on the pressure when they are thrashing on top. Thanks for posting what you have learned from your experiences with streamer fishing over the years.
Loren, or anybody else: What type of instrument do you use to sharpen your hooks with? Is there a technique to it?. I have a small file and just run the hook back and forth on both sides of the hook holding it on a slight angle. I do this until the hook sticks in my fingernail.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Regarding files, I have a Dr. Slick one with a built-in V-groove and two different grits. I just run the hook point in the groove, first in the coarse grit then the fine. This seems to improve the point to a degree, but I never do it as much as I should.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
I file on 3 edges to get it as scary sharp as I can (when I remember). Fish throwing long streamer hooks is an issue. I think you'll see a difference with a loop knot.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Thanks Alain and Loren. I will start using the loop knot.
Re: Streamer Fishing (summer Farmington TMA)
Switching to the 8089 hook and exclusively using a loop knot to my large streamers has improved my take, hook-up, and landing ratios significantly.
I use the Tiemco ceramic hook sharpener, it's the best I have used.
