Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
Any answers/responses yet?
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
I use an 8 wt 9' rod for both salmon and steel. I use a WF or a sinking line depending on water flow. A 10" 7 wt is a popular choice for steel alone. tapered leader to a swivel (required in the DSR) with a fluoro tippet then your choice of flies.
Egg patterns (glo bugs, sucker spawn) Egg- sucking leeches. buggers, stoneflies and streamers all have their place and time.
Salmon River for the biggest fish and lots of access, smaller creeks.. North and South Sandy, Oswego for a mixed bag but the scenery and crowds are awful. There are other streams further west all the way to Ohio that have some greats runs with smaller fish as well.
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
Thanks, this is very helpful.
About the tippet, what "x" or lbs. test in Flourocarbon?
Thanks again pulaskinaut
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
Also, could you tell me a bit about the swivel portion? I unfortunately don't have any steelhead experience. Any pictures you could direct me to, or articles would be greatly appreciated. Thanks P
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
Check the Douglastonsalmonrun.com site. You must have a "break in the line"at the DSR. I use 10 or 12 lb. flouro for salmon and 10 to 6 lb. for steel some guys go down to 4 lb(5x) on a tippet/leader from 2-4 feet. You cannot have any additional weight more than 4 feet from the fly. There are two "fly zones" on the SR but the LFZ is a joke where almost everyone is chucking and ducking with lots of large split shot. There are approx 13 miles of river to fish on the SR and the best way to learn is with someone who has been or hire a guide for a day, preferably during the week when it is less crowded as the steel move right in with the salmon starting...........now.
Water is very low which crowds the fish and the people. It's a whole different world up there and when you hit it right it can be spectacular. When you hit it wrong, it can be awful--crowded lots of snagging etc.
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
#1, get this book: http://groups.msn.com/JohnNagySteelh...headguide.msnw it will answer many many questions you have.
Short answer - I use a Sage XP 7wgt. 10' rod. I don't have one now, but will soon have a large arbor reel for quick line pickup and minmal coiling. A very good drag system is a must.
Places: close by - Salmon river, the Sandy creeks (just north of the Salmon river) A little further out, west of Rochester- Oak Orchard for big browns, keep going west (not quite to Buffalo) and you hit 18 Mile (which is a zoo in my opinion). Then, if you can make the drive, the real fun begins.... Canadaway, Chautauqua, the Catt, Elk, Walnut... etc etc etc.
Flies: fill a box with sucker spawn! Especially in pink and white. Woolys with an egg in the front, prince nymphs, PT's, green caddis, black stones, of course eggs...
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
Looks like most of your questions were answered well in this thread. 10' #7 is definitely the all around Great Lakes steelhead rod, hands down. The new Sage Z-Axis is probably the nicest one I've seen yet- and yes, I just got one in the store, it's sitting in the rack saying "Dave, Dave, come and get me....". Lol. Winston & Temple Fork also make nice rods. Definitely get a good-sized, large arbor reel with a smooth drag, steelhead are tippet breakers!
Depending on flies & techniques, tippet sizes typically range from 0x to 5x tippet, and flourocarbon is preferred. For swinging flies, don't go light- use 0x or 1x- 2x at the lightest. For dead-drifting (with or without an indicator) or chuck & duck/bottom bouncing with a running line, use 1x-5x tippet, with 2x-4x being the norm- I try to use 3x or heavier because I start breaking off fish a lot more when I go lighter. Using 3x Frog Hair flouro, I've landed King Salmon up to 30# while steelhead fishing. Tough stuff. Faster, murkier water, swinging flies (streamers, spey, tradtional flies, etc.), bigger flies, and fresh/unpressured fish all allow you to use heavier tippet. Bright sun, clear water, heavy pressure, lower/slower flows, and smaller flies all mean lighter line. 3x is usually light enough in my experience. Don't go too long on your weight to fly distance or you will foul hook & line a lot of fish. Depending on the rig & conditions, anywhere from 12''-30" is what I run. Usually 12-18" with an indicator set-up, and 18-30" when chuck & ducking/bottom bouncing with a running line and heavy weights/slinkies.
For lines get two- I recommend a Rio Nymph for an all puropse floater, and my other choice (almost a necessity for deep, heavy water that steelies so often hang in on rivers like the Salmon) would be a floating running line for chucking large quatities of weight and getting down to the fish. Use a nymph leader like Aaron showed you on the Nymph line, just beef it up- use 0x or 1x for the long piece. Many of us use a small black barrel swivel to connect the tippet to the main body of the leader- this gives you maximum strength, keeps the weights from sliding down, and usually means you lose only the fly when you hang bottom, rather than your fly, tippet and weight. Saves you a lot of re-rigging time- I run the shot on the tag end of the knot connecting the body of the leader to the swivel, and put a knot in the end to keep the weight from constantly sliding off.
The fly advice everyone gave you pretty much covers it. Various egg type patterns in assorted sizes and colors are your go-to flies, esp. in the Fall when there are lots of eggs in the flow. Try Glo-Bugs, Sucker Spawn & Estaz flies.- smaller/drabber in lower/clearer/slower water and bright sun, bigger/brighter in faster/murkier water and on fresher fish and in low light. Bring your trout nymphs and even some streamers (some with an egg head). Stuff like Hare's Ears, PT's, Stones (black, golden), Princes and Caddis larva (green, olive, chartreuse) would cover most of the bases for nymphs. Try Zonkers, Buggers, Clousers, Egg-Sucking Leeches and Bunny Leeches for streamers. More and more people are playing around with Speys and traditional type steelhead flies using a swinging presentation- low 40's to upper 50's is prob the best time for that, and you can use a heavy tippet. For that you would want a sinking leader, sink tip or Teeny type line to get them down.
There are many rivers, but my favorite is still the Salmon, and it's also the closest. It produces some really big fish of all species- 25# steel, state record Chinook Salmon (over 48# I believe), and browns up to and over 20#. It's the prettiest in NY, is good-sized, has lots of gradient, and usually holds a good number of steelhead from about mid October thru mid to late May. It's fishable in mid Winter, and they even catch some in the Summertime. However, it is easy to go there and get skunked. The Lake Erie tribs see the heaviest runs, although not the biggest fish, with 3-7# probably the norm- 10# plus is a big one ther. 5-12# is the usual on the Salmon & Owsego rivers, and 15-18# are not at all uncommon- Lake Ontario steelies run bigger, sometimes 20# plus. The smaller creeks in that same area can be good too (North & South Sandy), but are totally dependent upon rain & flow to bring fish in- the Erie tribs too. I also like the Oswego, it's not too far from the Salmon, but flows thru an urban setting, and fishes from Fall thru Spring. Moderately high, somewhat murky but dropping & clearing is the ideal conditions on the "spate" rivers that totally depend on rain (which would constitute most of the tribs).
Hope all of this helps. The best book I've seen on the subject is "Steelhead Dreams", by Matt Supinski. Orvis does a pocket guide, by Matt Supinski again, that is the best "short book" on the subject- tells you what you need to know without overwhelming, complicating the subject, or confusing you. There are other good books on the subject too.
Re: Steelhead Gear/tactics
Torrey, this is Phenomenal, thanks again. That 7 wt. Z-axis sounds very tempting. If I can save up, I'll probably be persuaded! Seriously. I first have to think about a 5 wt. rod in the near future. Are there any 5 wts. calling my name by chance?
I tied a boat load of glo bugs, and they seem to be getting at least a little better (maybe) if I really pinch the yarn tight and cut short. That, and trying to blend the yarn with the hook (horizontally), if that makes sense. I look forward to coming in and getting a few pointers. Sucker Spawn are next. I want to make sure that when I venture out, I'm doing it the right way, and this thread will certainly get me there.
I appreciate everyone's help, thanks. This was an extremely helpful thread.